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3D print files for anglers

Design it. Print it. Fish it.

Lures you make yourself. Choose a design or configure your own, then print, assemble and seal it at home.

Prints on Bambu Lab Prusa Research Creality Check compatibility →
Illustration of an unpainted minnow resting on its side, with a medium diving lip and stainless wire eyes
DRIFTER · 9 cm minnow · 1–2 m dive class

Product illustration. Explore the dimensions in live 3D.

Find your next build

Illustrations show each body and lip style. Open a model to explore its dimensions in 3D.

Topwater

Surface lures. Stainless through-wire and epoxy sealing are required. Use tungsten, steel or brass for pencil tail ballast. Never lead.

The lure studio

Make it yours.

Build a minnow or crankbait for the water you fish.
Every choice takes shape in 3D.

Print files only. PETG recommended, works with PLA. Prefer a translucent lip?
Raw PETGAssembly preview
drag to orbit · 360°
floating at rest
orbit — one finger · pinch to zoom
0 m1 m2 m3 m4 m
dive class 1–2 m
9 cm
preparing model…
Drag to rotate · scroll to zoom
Your build

Assembly preview. Hardware purchased separately.

F3D-09M-MF-H4
9 cm minnow · 1–2 m · floating · #4

How it works

You get the files and guides. You supply the printer, filament and hardware.

01
Body and diving-lip illustration of an unpainted crankbait
Configure
Six parameters. Live 3D. No account.
02
Print illustration: two mirrored body halves resting flat on a textured build plate
Print
PETG recommended; PLA works for a fit test. Select your printer and material in the slicer.
03
Assembly illustration: separate mirrored body halves, with a continuous wire harness in one half
Assemble & seal
Fit the through-wire, join the halves and seal with epoxy. Follow the included assembly guide.
04
Underwater illustration of a sealed crankbait with line, split rings and treble hooks
Fish
Trim it on the water. Tuning guide included.

Build illustrations. Follow the dimensions and assembly steps supplied with your files.

Before your first cast
Dive depth is a class. Your line, retrieve speed and tuning affect how the lure runs.
Built on proven base geometriesevery body
Stainless through-wire — required, in every filerouting included
Epoxy sealing — required, fully guided2 thin coats
Ballast: tungsten, steel or brassnever lead
Print files with build guidesSTL + 3MF

Prints on your printer

Open the STL or pre-arranged 3MF in Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura or OrcaSlicer. Parts sit flat on the bed and print without supports.

A1 · P1S · X1C
Included guide: Bambu Studio, PETG HF, textured PEI.
MK4
Included guide: PrusaSlicer preset, 0.20 mm quality.
Ender 3
Every part fits its 220 × 220 mm build plate.
220 × 220 mmcheck the arranged parts in your slicer
No supportspre-oriented 3MF in every package
PETGrecommended everywhere · required for molds · lures also print in PLA
Which 3D printers can print Fishing3D files?

Any FDM printer with a 220 × 220 mm bed or larger. Every part fits the Creality Ender 3 — our deliberate size limit. The print guide in every package has dialed-in sections for Bambu Lab A1/P1S/X1C, Prusa MK4 and Creality Ender 3.

Which slicer do I need?

Any common one: Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer, Cura or OrcaSlicer. You get vendor-neutral STL files plus a generic 3MF — open, pick your printer, slice.

What filament should I use?

PETG is recommended for lures; PLA works for fit tests. Translucent filament lets you leave the diving lip free of color while painting the body. Expect translucency, not glass clarity, and seal either material with epoxy. Use the separate material and process instructions for molds and other gear. Read the transparent-filament guide.

Do I need supports?

No. All parts are oriented to print without supports — the orientation is already set in the 3MF.

Bambu Lab, Prusa, Creality and Ender are trademarks of their respective owners, named here to describe compatibility only. Fishing3D is not affiliated with or endorsed by them.

Workshop

Bend your through-wire, hang your lures and turn them while the epoxy cures. Reusable tools for the required assembly and sealing steps.

No load ratings — these hold light lures, nothing more. The wheel needs a 5–6 rpm motor, the jig needs steel pins: not included, named exactly in each parts list.

Soft-bait molds

Two-part molds for pouring your own soft plastics — print the plate twice, clamp, pour. Printed molds are good for dozens of pours, not industrial tooling. The pour guide with required safety steps is part of every package.

Plastisol is poured at ~170 °C — the included guide covers the required safety steps. PETG required for mold plates.

Rod holders

Rest heads for standard 3/8″ BSF banksticks. The thread prints with the part, ready to screw onto your bankstick.

No load ratings — a printed part is as strong as your print. Made to rest a fishing rod, not to secure anything.

Bankstick adapters

Same printed 3/8″ BSF thread — raise your rest, split one stick into two, or put a camera where your rod is.

The camera adapter carries a stainless 1/4″-20 bolt (not included) — a printed part never holds your camera alone: use a leash. No load ratings, not a securing device.

Kayak mounts

Rod tube mounts for 1″ gear tracks and round rails — printed holder plus stainless hardware you add yourself.

No load ratings — strength depends on your print and hardware. Always run a rod leash. Not a securing device.

Rod racks

Wall storage for your rods — printed brackets with rounded cradles, for the garage, basement or tackle room. You add screws and anchors to match your wall.

No load ratings — a printed bracket is as strong as your print and your wall anchors. Mounting into studs or proper anchors is a required step; screws and anchors not included.

Guides

Choose your filament, assemble your first lure and learn how to seal it. Practical guides for your next build.

All guides →

The lure you can't buy.
Because you make it.
Start configuring
No account · STL + 3MF · Build guides included