THE BUILD SHEET · F3D-09C-SF-H4

9 cm crankbait · build guide

Print your parts. Gather the hardware below. Follow the numbered steps.

01 / FROM YOUR PRINTER
  • P1Left body halfDiving lip is part of the print.×1
  • P2Right body halfCheck the code on your files before assembly.×1

Starting point for a fit test: 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.16 mm layers, 3 walls, 10% gyroid. Print both halves on their flat mating faces. Inspect the sliced wire channel and pockets. PETG preferred; PLA is useful for a fit test. Final buoyancy depends on the actual print and hardware.

INSIDE YOUR PRINTD1D2E1C

Everything has its place.

C Through-wire channel
D1 / D2 Alignment pin bores
E1 Ballast pocket

Section taken from the exported CAD half, 0.1 mm above the seam. See the parts list for depths and cut lengths. This is a location map, not a full-size wire-bending template.

What you’ll need to add

Hardware and consumables are purchased separately. Quantities are for one complete build.

Guide matched to CAD revision 2. Pocket and pin dimensions come from the CAD model.

The hook and ring models are identifiable buying references, not a physically validated hardware combination. Check fit and buoyancy before committing to a batch.

Finish option: translucent PLA or PETG lets you leave the diving lip free of color. Expect translucency, not guaranteed glass clarity. Mask the lip while priming and painting the body, then include it in the clear epoxy seal. Transparent plastic still needs surface preparation. Keep the supplied wall and infill settings for the first trial; check final weight and buoyancy. PETG remains preferred; PLA is more heat-sensitive.

One step at a time

Keep the part letters beside you as you assemble.

  1. 01P1 + P2 + D

    Print & check the fit

    Remove burrs. Bring the dry halves together. The seam must close without force. Check the pin lengths before adding glue.

  2. 02C + P1

    Bend one wire harness

    Use the printed channel as your template. Form three closed eyes outside the body. The wire must sit below the mating face; keep twists and bulky joins out of the seam. Check that every eye is captured by the harness.

  3. 03A + B + C + D + E

    Check the complete weight

    Dry-fit the wire and pins. Weigh the body together with hooks and rings; allow for the epoxy you will add. Trial ballast must fit within its pocket. For a rough water check, enclose the dry assembly in a thin sealed bag with excess air pressed out. The bag affects buoyancy; leave margin for epoxy. Start without ballast for a floating build.

  4. 04P1 + P2 + C + D + E + F

    Bond & seal

    After checking the fit and trim, fix the harness and ballast, fit the pins and bond the halves. Clamp gently. Clear epoxy from the eyes. Let the bond cure, apply two thin coats of compatible coating epoxy and let it fully cure before water exposure.

  5. 05A + B

    Fit the hooks

    Use one split ring at each belly and tail eye. The hooks must swing freely without catching one another or the lip. Check this before fishing. Fit hooks last, after the epoxy has cured.

  6. 06P1 + P2

    Test before the first cast

    Tether the finished lure in a water tub. Check for leaks, its resting attitude and buoyancy. Then try a slow retrieve in shallow water. A floating/sinking label and dive class are design targets; tune and test the actual build.

Build sheet 2026-09-10 · Save this guide with your files. These process sketches are not dimensioned drawings.